Cleveland - U.S. Military Changes Rules on Women's Hairstyles after Rep. Marcia Fudge and Congressional Black Caucus Say They Show Racial Bias

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By Stephen Koff

Women of different races sometimes wear their hair differently, yet the U.S. military's rules for hairstyles have not always been colorblind or sensitive to cultural differences, as even Defense Secretary Chuck Hagel now appears to acknowledge.

In other words, the Army and Air Force are purging the words "matted and unkempt" from their lists of unacceptable grooming styles for women, and permitting certain braids and cornrows.

All military services, including the Marines and Navy, have either reviewed or are in the midst of reviewing their grooming policies to ensure they are "fair and respectful while also meeting our military requirements," Hagel said in a letter this week to U.S. Rep. Marcia Fudge, Democrat of Warrensville Heights.

Fudge chairs the Congressional Black Caucus, a group of lawmakers who in April told Hagel that a revised Army regulation was seen as offensive and racially biased. The regulation banned, among other things, any style of dreadlocks, defining dreadlocks as "any matted, twisted, or locked coils or ropes of hair (or extensions)."

The regulation, issued March 31, also said, "Braids or cornrows that are unkempt or matted are considered dreadlocks and are not authorized."

The regulation appeared to target "women of color with little regard to what is needed to maintain their natural hair," the Black Caucus complained in its April 10 letter to Hagel.

The Army had maintained that its grooming rules applied to all women regardless of race. But the lawmakers' letter said that this assumed that women wearing some forbidden styles "cannot wear them in a way that meets the professionalism of Army standards."

This assumption, the caucus said, "indicates a lack of cultural sensitivity conducive to creating a tolerant environment for minorities."

This prompted Hagel to order a review of military grooming standards, and to the changes announced this week. Hagel reported to Fudge on Monday that each military service is continuing efforts "to ensure fair and respective policies for our diverse force."

Among the changes, Hagel said:

The Army determined that "matted" and "unkempt" are offensive words and will remove them from its policy. The Army also authorized temporary two-strand twists, increased the size of authorized braids, cornrows and twists and removed spacing requirements. The Army also authorized women to wear ponytails during physical training.
The Air Force also will remove the words "matted" and "unkempt" and changed the name "dreadlocks" to "locs." The Air Force also authorized two-strand twists, French twists and Dutch braids.
The Navy found it had no specifically offensive language governing hairstyles but some dated terms and descriptions from its list of frequently asked questions. Now gone: "Twist hairstyles are not authorized because they fall within the guidelines of being faddish." The Navy also authorized two-strand twists and braids that hang freely -- if they hang above the collar and encompass the whole head.
The Marine Corps found no derogatory or discriminatory language but has convened a special board this summer to consider an expanded list of permissible hairstyles.
According to the newspaper Stars and Stripes, the Marines are surveying members this week to get their opinions of whether dreadlock and twist hairstyles should be permitted for women while in uniform.

Fudge on Tuesday thanked Hagel.

"These changes recognize that traditional hairstyles worn by women of color are often necessary to meet our unique needs, and acknowledges that these hairstyles do not result in or reflect less professionalism or commitment to the high standards required to serve within our Armed Forces," Fudge said in a statement.

"With these changes, Secretary Hagel and the Department of Defense not only show they are responsive to the individuals who serve within our military, but that he and his leadership respect them as well," Fudge said. "The Congressional Black Caucus commends Secretary Hagel for his leadership in addressing this issue."

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